The Huayhuash Circuit
Peaks, passes and beautiful turquoise lakes on this remote circuit of Peru’s Huayhuash chain.

The Cordillera Huayhuash is an isolated mountain range which includes Peru’s second highest summit, Yerupaja (6634m). Also situated here is the notorious Siula Grande (6344m) where Joe Simpson had his celebrated epic of survival, vividly recounted in his book ‘Touching the Void’.

The complete circuit of the range is a tremendous high level walk, renowned for its tranquil blue lakes and verdant alpine pastures, where inspiring snow-capped peaks form a majestic backdrop at each and every campsite. Less frequented than its northern neighbour the Cordillera Blanca, the Huayhuash offers varied and challenging walking. From Lima we travel to Huaraz and from there to the village of Chiquian. This important Quechua town is the gateway to the region, where we meet our local crew and commence the trek. In twelve days we make a complete circuit of the entire range, hiking for over 100 miles on a high level route which rarely drops below the 4000 metre level. We cross eight tough passes and reach a high point with the crossing of the sensational Punta Coyoc at 5490m. The trek culminates on the shores of Lake Jahuacocha. This exquisite turquoise lake is surrounded by some of the most famous peaks of the Andes including Rondoy (5870m) and the distinctive shark fin of Jirishanca (6030m) with its fluted faces and knife-edged ridges. This is a wonderful trekking holiday with scenery to rival that of the Himalaya. With a combination of outstanding grassy campsites beside turquoise glacial lakes, and the lively company of our local team of muleteers, this trek offers an incredibly varied South American experience.

Grade
Strenuous

Insurance Premium
£89

Duration
22 days

DAY 1 Depart UK
Our flight departs early in the morning from the UK. We arrive in Lima late in the evening of the same day and transfer to our hotel in the fashionable Miraflores district of the city.

DAY 2 Drive Lima to Huaraz
After breakfast we board a private bus for the eight hour drive to the town of Huaraz (3050m) in Peru’s Ancash province. We head north out of Lima and initially follow the arid Pacific coastal road through sprawling shanty settlements to Pativilca. We then head inland following the Fortaleza valley where local villagers cultivate a wide variety of vegetables. Early in the season we will see acres of red peppers put out to dry in the heat of the sun. We cross over a high pass to Conococha (4050m) and from this high point on the road we get our first views of the snow covered mountains of the Cordillera Blanca and Huayhuash. We descend into the upper Rio Santa valley and finally arrive in Huaraz in the heart of the Peruvian Andes. We stay in the superb Andino Hotel which is undoubtedly the best place in town. The hotel is run by Swiss management and most rooms have superb panoramic views of the mountains.

DAY 3 Free in Huaraz
We have a leisurely morning to recover from the travelling and adjust to the altitude. Huaraz is the major city in the region known as Callejon de Huaylas and is a cultural centre. There are many pleasant restaurants and cafes where we can enjoy lunch with the spectacular mountain backdrop of Huascaran, Chopicalqui and Huandoy. In the afternoon we can walk above the town

DAY 4 Acclimatisation day
An acclimatisation day. We drive up the Quebrada Quilcayhuanca to the road head at nearly 3900m. (“Quebrada” means valley in Spanish). This is a delightful and rarely visited valley where if we are lucky we may catch a glimpse of the rare Condor. The beautiful sapphire lake of Laguna Churrup (4600m) is a possible objective of today’s walk. Our acclimatisation is premised on the adage ‘climb high and sleep low’ so we will endeavour to trek up to the highest reaches of the valley before returning to Huaraz.

DAY 5 Begin the trek at Llamac
After an early breakfast we depart Huaraz and drive south to Conococha. We then continue on a jeep track to Chiquian which for many years was the traditional starting point for treks into the Cordillera Huayhuash. There are great views from close to here of Yerupaja (6634m), the highest peak in the Huayhuash and the second highest in Peru. The road has now been extended to Llamac and we follow this down to the Rio Llamac and onto the small village of Quisipata. This is where we meet our team of arrieros (muleteers) whose donkeys (burros) will be carrying our trek bags for the next two weeks. We have lunch here whilst our trek crew make the final arrangements with the arrieros, and the burros are loaded. Leaving Quisipata we follow the Quero River and walk for a couple of hours to the village of the same name, camping in a pleasant meadow beside the river at an altitude of about 3250m.

DAY 6 Trek to Mitacocha
We follow a trail alongside the River Quero which ascends gradually to the village of Maguay (4150m). We have lunch here before continuing along the river to a delightful campsite in verdant alpine meadows of Mitacocha.

DAY 7 Trek to Cartelhuain
We climb steeply up to the Laguna Sacracocha and enter some really wild and remote terrain. The peaks of the Huayhuash now begin to reveal themselves as we cross two high passes of around 4600m. These lead to our campsite for the night at the small grazing area at Cartelhuain (4000m). Local villagers use this area as a corral for their herds of alpaca, and it is a stunning setting with the Huayhuash peaks just peeping over the top of the low lying hills which surround us.

DAY 8 Across the Punta Cancanan
An early start today for the crossing of the Punta Cacanan (4700m). This important pass lies on the crest of the Andean Continental Divide and marks the watershed between the Atlantic and the Amazon. Rivers on the west drain into the Atlantic Ocean whilst those to the east flow into the vast Amazon basin. The route up to the pass follows a steep series of zig zags and from the top we have an expansive view over the mountains of the Huayhuash. We then descend steeply down into the broad Quebrada Caliente which we follow to an idyllic campsite at Laguna Mitacocha (4200m). This glacial blue lake is surrounded by a tremendous array of peaks, making it one of the most scenic campsites on the entire trek. The most impressive of these is Jirishanca (6126m) which is one of the most sought-after summits in the Huayhuash. The lake of Mitacocha is famed for its fish and birdlife and if our trek crew arrive early enough they may be able to catch some trout for our dinner.

DAY 9 Trek to Laguna Carhuacocha
Leaving Mitacocha we follow the Quebrada Caliente south-eastwards until we begin to climb up to our next pass – the Punta Carhuac (4650m). From the top of this we are rewarded with fine close range views of Yerupaja and for those who have the energy, there is a viewpoint a little way above the pass where you can see the peak of Siula Grande (6344m) which was where Joe Simpson and Simon Yates had their epic (recounted in ‘Touching the Void’). On the descent from the pass we are rewarded with views of most of the peaks of the central Huayhuash which come into view one by one. Following the grassy Quebrada Caliente we eventually arrive at the remote lake of Carhuacocha. This is truly splendid location with both Yerupaja and Jirishanca prominent and when conditions are still the reflection of the mountains in the turquoise-green waters of Laguna Carhuacocha is one of the most photogenic sights on the entire trek. Our campsite by the lake shore is at an altitude of 4200m.

DAY 10 Rest day at Laguna Carhuacocha
Our idyllic campsite at Laguna Carhuacocha is one to savour and we have scheduled a full day and two nights here. This can be used as a rest day, or perhaps you may wish to go fishing on the lake with our Peruvian trek crew. Alternatively for the energetic a superb trek is possible up to Laguna Siula (4300m) from where we get close range views of Siula Grande itself.

DAY 11 Across the Punta Huayhuash
We have a long day today as we climb up from Laguna Carhuacocha and cross the Punta Huayhuash (4575m). This poorly defined pass crosses a series of boulder strewn ridges which eventually reveals the two Atocshaico lakes sandwiched between the peaks of Trapecio (5664m) and Carnicero (5960m). As we descend from the pass the scenery undergoes a complete transformation from the green alpine pastures we have left behind at Carhuacocha to a lunar landscape of black rocks and grey lakes. However as we descend the superb mountain scenery draws our gaze and most impressive of all is Carnicero (the ‘Butcher’) which now comes fully into view. This peak has reputedly earned its name because of the high toll taken on those who attempt to climb it. Down in the valley we can just make out the small huts and corrals of Huayhuash village but we may wish to linger up high where we can admire the tremendous scenery and wait for our trek crew to set up camp before finally trekking easily down into the valley. The region around Huayhuash village is home to herds of alpaca and vicunia who graze in the fields and on the hillsides around us.

DAY 12 Across the Portachuelo Pass
From Huayhuash village we have a long and steady climb to the Portachuelo Pass (4750m). From the crest of this pass we have a superb panorama of the remote peaks of the Cordillera Raura which are situated to the southeast of us. We descend from the pass to Laguna Viconga where we can have lunch. We then have a further climb up to a camp at 4800 metres just below the Punta Cuyoc.

DAY 13 Across the Punta Cuyoc to Quebrada Huanactapay
A superb days walking today begins with a two hour climb to the crest of the Punta Cuyoc. At 5050m it is the highest point on our trek and a superb view point with stunning views of the entire Huayhuash group to the north. The glaciers of Puscanturpa (5442m) seem almost to descend right to the pass. To the south the scene is completed with views of the Raura peaks. We descend from the pass towards Quebrada Huanactapay and en-route can have lunch in one of the finest locations on the trek with a magnificent backdrop of alpine peaks. We camp in the valley at an altitude of 4400 metres.

DAY 14 Trek to Huatiac
An easy day today as we follow the valley downwards through walled fields and past waterfalls to the village of Huayllapa (3700m) From here we climb up through a narrow valley and so reach the pastures of Huatiac (4300m) where we camp above the village.

DAY 15 Trek to Laguna Jahuacocha
A long day crossing the Punta Tarpush (4750m) and the Punta Yaucha (4800m) before descending to the spectacular Laguna Jahuacocha (4100m). This fantastic lake nestles amidst a tremendous amphitheatre of peaks including Rondoy (5885m), Jirishanca, El Toro (6100m), Yerupaja, Siula Grande and Sarupo (6127m), making it one of the best campsites on the trek. Some trekkers even reckon it to be the finest mountain viewpoint in the whole of South America.

DAY 16 Rest day at Laguna Jahuacocha
A rest day at Laguna Jahuacocha. Surrounded by soaring alpine peaks and cascading glaciers this is a campsite to savour and there are many scenic day hikes which will suggest themselves. Alternatively you may wish to relax around camp, taking photographs and soaking up the tremendous mountain scenery.

DAY 17 Trek out to Huarungay
The last full day of trekking takes us over an easy pass where we can turn and look at the big peaks for the last time. We then descend to the village of Popca where we have lunch. We continue to descend to Huarungay and our campsite at an altitude of 3000 metres.

DAY 18 Trek and drive out to Huaraz
We have a short morning’s trek back to the village of Quisipata. Our trek crew and team of arrieros leave us here and we board our vehicles for the drive back to Huaraz. We check back into the Andino hotel where hot showers await us and in the evening we can go to a local restaurant for a celebratory meal.

DAY 19 Contingency day
A spare contingency day in case of disruptions to our planned itinerary.

DAY 20 Drive to Lima
After an early breakfast we board our bus and make the 8 hour road journey back to Lima. We arrive in the late afternoon and check into the Hotel Antigua in Miraflores. Lima has great nightlife and a superb selection of restaurants which we can chose from.

DAY 21 Lima - evening departure
The morning and early afternoon will be free for sightseeing in Lima. In the late afternoon we depart for the airport for our flight back to the UK.

DAY 22 Arrive UK
We arrive in the UK in the afternoon.