|
The
Walkers Haute Route A superb
high level traverse of the Western Alps from Chamonix to Zermatt
The
Walkers Haute Route from Chamonix to Zermatt is a demanding two week trek. It
differs slightly from the modern ski traverse since we must avoid the technical
glacier crossings accessible only to mountaineers equipped with ropes and ice
axes. We begin
in France but immediately commence the long climb out of the Chamonix Valley over
the Col de Balme and into Switzerland. Traversing the Canton of Valais the route
crosses the high ridges and deep gorges of the Pennine Alps, travelling across
the grain of the land. Many of the passes we cross involve ascents of over 1000
metres through rough and relatively remote terrain, making this a tour for the
fit walker, but we will be rewarded by a succession of overnight stops in spectacular
mountain huts and charming alpine villages. Our
route links the two largest mountaineering centres in the Alps - Chamonix and
Zermatt - and the two most famous mountains in the Alps - Mont Blanc and the Matterhorn.
During the course of our walk we see many other famous peaks including the Weisshorn
(4505m), the Zinal Rothorn (4221m) and the Dom (4545m). Eventually we reach the
delightful village of St. Nicklaus in the Mattertal Valley. From here we take
the mountain train on the journey up to Zermatt. Here at last, at the scene of
Edward Whymper’s first ascent in 1865, we come face to face with the Matterhorn
- perhaps the most famous mountain view in the world.
Grade
Strenuous Insurance
Premium £50 Duration 13
days
Itinerary
DAY
1 Arrival in Geneva We meet you on arrival at Geneva Airport and transfer by
road to our hotel in Argentiere, situated in the Chamonix valley. Argentiere is
very popular amongst British walkers and mountaineers and to cater for them there
is an excellent British-run bar situated here. We stay in a comfortable hotel
in the centre of the village within walking distance of all amenities. DAY
2 Trek from Chamonix to Argentiere In the morning we travel into Chamonix town
centre and take the Brevent cable car up to the top station at 2525m. The viewpoint
from here is absolutely stunning and we can gaze across the Chamonix valley towards
Mont Blanc and a myriad of smaller peaks including the Chamonix Needles and the
Aiguille du Midi. This section of the trek follows the Tour du Mont Blanc route
as we traverse across the sensational high level terrace of the ‘Grand Balcon’
past La Flegere to the still waters of Lac Blanc. With clear skies the reflection
of the Mont Blanc chain in the lake is one of the most photogenic views on the
whole trek. From this lake the path descends in a wide series of zig zags back
down to Argentiere and our hotel. A few beers await in one of the town’s
several attractive hostelries. DAY
3 Across the Col de Balme to Trient In the morning after a leisurely breakfast
we prepare our rucksack The second overnight stop on the trek cannot be reached
by vehicle so baggage transfer will not be possible on this section. We will need
to pack our rucksack very carefully, omitting any non-essential items and travelling
as light as possible. We catch a local bus up to Le Tour where, to help us get
started, we take the Col de Balme chair lift to the half-way station at just over
1800m. From here we get straight on the TMB path with a steady climb up to the
Col de Balme at 2191m. There is a small refuge on the crest of the pass, which
forms the frontier between France and Switzerland, and if the guardian is in residence
we may be able to buy drinks and snacks from here. We have a great panoramic view
across the Valle D’Arve towards the peaks of the Aiguilles Rouges whilst
to the southeast we can see the Aiguille du Tour (3544m) and the Aiguille du Chardonnet
(3824m). Descending on the east side of the pass, we follow a good path, gentle
to begin with but steepening as we approach the bottom of the valley. We stay
overnight at the picturesque village of Trient. DAY
4 Across the Fenetre d'Arpette to Champex We depart from the refuge early in
the morning for the long climb up to the Fenetre d’Arpette (2665m). The
path climbs high above the Trient Glacier and we can look across the huge glacier
bowl of the Aiguilles Dorees towards the Aiguille D’Argentiere (3902m).
Crossing this pass can be one of the toughest days on the whole trek. The ground
is fairly rough and there is a modest degree of scrambling, such that in poor
weather we would need to consider an alternative route via La Forclaz. On the
far side of the pass we descend steeply across a boulder field into the Val D’Arpette,
pausing briefly at the refuge D’Arpette before continuing down to the exceptionally
beautiful village of Champex situated by a tranquil alpine lake. We stay overnight
at a delightful chalet style hotel and will be re-united with our baggage from
Argentiere. DAY
5 Trek to the Mont Fort Refuge We walk down the valley through delightful alpine
pastures to Sembrancher and then onto Les Chables in Val de Bagnes. To avoid a
very long uphill climb through a partially residential and farming area we a telepherique
and then walk for about an hour to the Mont Fort refuge (2457m). This is a relatively
easy day which will be very welcome if we have come over the Fenetre D’Arpette
on day 4. The Mont Fort refuge is a delightful old-style alpine hut with great
views and we can sit on the veranda with a beer and watch the sun set over the
mountains. Among the peaks we can see from here are the Dents du Midi, the Grandes
Jorasses and the Grand Combin. Our support vehicle is not able to reach the high
mountain huts so we will need to carry all essential items for tonight, and for
the following night as well. DAY
6 Trek to the Prafleuri Refuge Today is the longest section of the trek so
far, crossing three high cols and climbing a substantial distance , but we are
rewarded with spectacular views throughout. From Mont Fort we follow a narrow
path which clings to the hillside under huge cliffs with occasional metal chains
for assistance. We have great views of the Grand Combin and back to Mont Fort.
The first pass of the day is Col Termin and this is followed rapidly by the Col
Louvie (2921m). Ibex are often seen on these remote passes. A steep descent leads
to the Grand Desert, the moraine-strewn snout of a dry glacier, which we cross
to reach the Col de Praefleuri (2987m) and a final steep climb to the new Praefleuri
refuge (2624m). A tough day! DAY
7 Across the Col de Roux to Arolla Another long day beginning with a short
climb up to the Col de Roux (2804m) and then a steep descent to the Lac des Dix.
In poor weather conditions we may opt to take a lower route which avoids the col
and follows the lake shore. By either route we reach La Barma and continue on
the westerly side of the lake and directly south of us at the far end of the lake
we can see the great north face of Mont Blanc de Cheilon (3870m). The path now
begins to climb above the Glacier de Cheilon heading for the Riedmatten Pass (2928m)
which we cross and make a descent of nearly 1000 metres to reach the pretty village
of Arolla. We stay in a comfortable hotel with ensuite twin rooms and are re-united
with our baggage which has been driven around from Champex. DAY
8 Down the valley to La Sage From Arolla we follow a pleasant path through
pine forests to the small Lac Bleu. Occasionally it is possible to buy local cheese
from the farmer here. We descend to the village of Les Hauderes in Val d’Herens
where we can have lunch before continuing to climb up to the little hamlet of
La Sage. We stay overnight in simple dormitory accommodation. DAY
9 Cabane de Moiry We have two options today, both involving the crossing of
a high pass. Normally we would plan to cross the Col de Torrent (2919m) and descend
to the barrage at Lac de Moiry. But an alternative is the Col de Tsate (2868m)
which is somewhat more direct. Either way brings us to the Lac de Moiry where
there is a small café. From here we trek up to the beautifully situated
Cabane de Moiry. DAY
10 Across the Col de Sorebois to Zinal We follow a series of steep switch backs
to the Col de Sorebois (2840m) where in clear weather there is an incredible panorama
across to the Central Mischabel Alps including the Weisshorn (4506m), the Schalihorn
(3978m) and the Zinal Rothorn (4221m). We drop down into the delightful Val D’Anniviers
and the pleasant village of Zinal (1675m). There is an option to use a cable car
for the final 800 metres descent into the valley. In Zinal we stay at a comfortable
hotel and once again will have access to our baggage. DAY
11 Across the Meidpass to Gruben We climb to the crest of the Meidpass (2790m)
where our eye will be drawn by the tremendous glaciers of the Weisshorn, the Bishorn
(4153m) and the Brunegghorn (3833m). We drop down a short distance to the little
lake at Meidsee where we can have lunch before embarking on the long descent to
the village of Gruben (1822m) in the Turtmanntal valley. We stay in at the Hotel
Schwarzhorn and will be re-united with our baggage. DAY
12 Across the Augustbord Pass to Zermatt One final big day over the Augustbordpass
(2894m). The climb to the pass involves about 1000 metres of ascent from Gruben,
but at the top we are greeted with a sensational view across to a range of peaks
not seen up to this point on the trek. The Dom (4479m), the Lenzspitze (4294m)
and the Taschhorn (4490m) are the tallest of a great chain of peaks lying high
above the Mattertal Valley and stretching south all the way to Monte Rosa and
the Matterhorn itself. As we descend into the pretty Augustbord valley we are
rewarded with some of the finest views on the whole trek. The final steep descent
to St. Niklaus can be cut short with a cable car from Jugen. We board a mountain
train for the short ride up to Zermatt and our hotel at the foot of the Matterhorn,
where we will be re-united with our baggage. DAY
13 Travel home After breakfast we depart from Zermatt. Most members will be
travelling by train for the journey to Geneva Airport and a flight back to the
UK.
|